Text Message Confession

The only reason I actually came to India was to see my good friend, John D. Spangler. I really am not interested in connecting with my roots or learning about India through my own experiences, gaining field experience or learning more about medical anthropology. No, the whole plot of getting this grant and going to South India was to get a glimpse of the dhoti-clad JSpangs in action, speaking Tamil. (Disclaimer: no dhotis actually occurred)

John lives in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, which is about 6-8 hours away from where I am staying in Bangalore. I got to take a car down and visit John for two days and see a new city. The trip itself was beautiful, we went through rural areas, mountains, little cities along the way. It was an India I had never seen before.

Ganesh

Something I had been looking forward to doing in Bangalore that has not yet happened was meeting other non-Indians who were adjusting to the new country and knew how to negotiate the foreigner experience. I don't appear foreign until I open my mouth, then all bets are off. In fact, I was almost not allowed into the Meenakshi Temple, because the guard thought I was a foreigner. I was actually upset that even in a salwar kameez, I did not appear passable. I had to keep my mouth shut and let Sukhbir argue my case for me in Hindi. Non-Hindus are not allowed in the inner sanctum where Meenakshi/Parviti shrine and the Shiva lingum are. Perhaps because they are afraid it will be overrun with tourists who are not there to worship and the line to get in was already quite long (I waited for 30-40 minutes to catch a glimpse of the Meenakshi murti and then shoved along). I still took a sneak photo of Ganeshji with a grass garland from Nandi. I was scolded by a priest when I went for a photo of Nandi later.

inside Meenakshi Temple

Meenakshi Temple is one of the few big temples in India that is devoted to a female deity. Meenakshi is a the manifestation of Parvati, Shivaji's consort. Meenakshi Temple is also the main attraction in Madurai. The temple is in the center of the city and everything is built around it. It's an old, beautiful, colorful temple, nothing like I've ever seen up North. We got our fortune told by a parrot outside the temple (I will have a husband and two children soon :| and John is about to get $$$) but the parrot pooped on JSpangs, so we were over it quickk. Also, John is a baller in Madurai. He's lived there a year and about half the shopkeepers in the entire city know him and chat him up and don't cheat him on prices.

We went to see a Tamil film later (I know negative twenty words in Tamil) and I magically understood the entire film, start to finish. Kollywood films seem to be more sexually reserved than Bollywood films, but incredibly violent. It was interesting to see their use of social issues such as corruption, the media, etc., but not provide any actual commentary. It was simply the setting. Moral: populist movements will never (again) work in India and if you try to meddle in a love triangle, you're gonna get killed. Also, Bollywood costumes and music are waayy better, which is something I thought I would never say. I ended my stay in Madurai with a few of John's fellow friendly foreigners on a rooftop with some North Indian food and ginger lime sodas. (We ate a lot in general the two days I was there, duh). I have a feeling that the rest of my India trip will not be as foreigner-filled, so I'm so glad I caught John before he left the country. Thanks for an awesome weekend, Brit-knee!

rooftop in Madurai with the man himself